Thursday, July 26, 2007

Kashgar and Lake Karakul

I'm still in Kashgar - I think I'm leaving tomorrow for Urumqi.

Kashgar doesn't feel like China. Many many people don't speak any Chinese but only their native Central Asian language, most of which use a modified Arabic script. It's really strange to see Chinese characters and Arabic letters on signs all over town, and interestingly enough it makes Chinese, both the language and the Han people, seem foreign and a bit unwelcome. In any case, this is a fun place to walk around through bazaars and winding alleys of old houses. Hopefully some of the pictures will turn out.

Yesterday I went up towards the border with Pakistan to Lake Karakul, a beautiful blue lake in an alpine meadow. I walked all the way around it, which may have been a mistake since one end was pretty marshy and populated by more mosquitos than the Amazon. During my navigation of puddles, streams, and mud, I found myself walking along a sand bar that separated the main lake from the surrounding puddles. It seemed firm enough until I came upon a little stream flowing over the top of it, no more than 2 feet wide, but when I stepped next to it the ground suddenly sunk beneath me, filling my shoes with sand and soaking me up to my knees. And the mosquitos wouldn't give me a minute's rest to stop and get the sand and little rocks out. What inconsiderate creatures.

On the lakeshore, there were many local people who had built an extra yurt that tourists could stay in, but the idea of spending a night on a yak rug with my allergies was less than attractive, so I took the bus back in the afternoon. All went well until we came upon a huge mudslide with a creek running down it, all snowmelt from the surrounding mountains. It took more than an hour for the earthmoving machine to arrive and finally clear a car-wide alleway through the muck. I didn't really mind the wait, though, as the surrounding canyon was beautiful and watching someone scoop mud off the road can actually be quite entertaining.

Since today's my last day in town, I'm going to get out and walk around.

Tuesday, July 24, 2007

Xinjiang

I'm writing this post from an internet cafe in Kashgar, one of the westernmost cities in China. It's famuos as being an oasis on the Silk Road. I just arrived today after a 24 hour bus ride from Ürümqi, the capital of Xinjiang. I didn't really spend much time there either since I'll have to pass through again on my way back to Xi'an. My flight for Indianapolis leaves on the morning of August 1 from Xi'an so I will need to be back there by the 30th or 31st. In the meantime, I plan to see what life is like here in China's Wild West, hopefully getting to see some beautiful high-altitude lakes and mountains along with the vast expanse of desert I saw pass by the window yesterday.

Time to go eat some kebabs.

Friday, July 13, 2007

end of the school year

Apologies for the extended silence. I've been taking care of all those fun end-of-the-semester things, such as exams, grades, and, most importantly, my plans for next year. I will be moving to the Chengdu University of Technology in, as the name implies, Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan province in what is considered Southwest China, about 16 hours southwest of Xi'an by train. I'll have pretty much the same financial, living, and teaching arrangement (up to 16 hours of class per week) there as I do here, and when I visited the city a few weeks ago I liked it much better than where I'm living now. The campus was nice with lots of trees and other greenery and a man-made lake or two to sit around and study or what have you, a stark contrast with the dry still-under-construction campus I live on now. A change of scenery will also be nice, not to mention providing me with the opportunity to learn about a different part of Chinese culture.

Before I move to Chengdu, though, I get to travel. First, I'll probably be heading to Xinjiang province in the far west of China, hopefully flying from here to Ürümqi next Tuesday if I get my visa extension in time. From there I'd like to head west to Kashgar and the border with Pakistan, then back along the Southern Silk Road. How far I take that will depend on timing - I need to be back in Xi'an around July 31 to start the international part of my vacation.

The details are still fuzzy but if what my boss is telling me is true, the ticket the school is buying for me should have me arriving in Indianapolis on the first of August. I'll spend most of the month in Cincinnati and Illinois, probably leaving for Chengdu between August 26-31. I'm very much looking forward to seeing everyone - it's been a long time and this online communication just isn't the same.


Well now I'm going to get to buying my plane ticket for next semester. If there's anything you want from China, don't hesitate to ask - I should have plenty of room in my luggage - just please don't ask for all the tea. They don't like that.

Friday, June 15, 2007

visiting Yunnan Agricultural University

I'm flying to Kunming tonight to check out Yunnan Agricultural University where I could teach next year, and I'll fly back here Monday night. Since I'm in the country, I figure I should take advantage of the opportunity and check out the place that I'm going to be living for a year instead of just going in blind like I did before. Depending on how it goes, I might go visit the other two schools I'm considering next weekend. I'll let you what it's like and maybe even have some pictures to share when I get back.

Tuesday, June 12, 2007

still doing alright

School's moving along smoothly with about a month left to go in the semester. Last week I gave a lecture to the English department about what the school could do to create a better language learning environment here on campus, but since only about 4 teachers attended, I doubt much will change.

I'm working on finalizing my arrangements for next semester. At the moment I have a good offer from a school in Shaoxing, a small city about 2 hours outside of Shanghai, and I'm waiting to hear more details from a couple of schools in Chengdu and Kunming. By the end of the week I should have enough information to make up my mind. The school in Shaoxing would be nice, but the local language spoken there differs significantly from Mandarin so I would probably have to practice mostly with students who are used to speaking Mandarin instead of people outside the school. I don't think that will really be a big issue, but it's reason enough to wait to see what the other schools have to offer me. I'll keep you posted on my decision.



Congratulations to all of you who have recently graduated - I wish I could have been there to celebrate with you.

Monday, June 11, 2007

birthday photos

For my birthday some of my students came over and we made dinner together.

platos

They even got me a cake

torta

which started a cake fight.

venganza

tortado

dulces



Quite a party for a 23-year-old.

daytrip photos

About three weeks ago I went on a daytrip with my bosses and Wayne, the other foreign teacher. We also went to walk up a mountain with waterfalls, but this time we took a tram most of the way up.

auto

I saw this cool spiderweb and actually managed to photograph part of it.

telaraña

The waterfall was pretty tall but not so voluminous.

vertiente

/ /

pared de agua

After lunch we went to Famen Si, a temple that houses a bone from the Buddha's finger.

Famen Si

banderitas

torre del templo

Not a bad day of local tourism.

Friday, May 18, 2007

Taiping National Forest

Last Saturday I went with a big group of my students to climb up a mountain alongside a stream with a bunch of waterfalls. The bus broke down twice one the way there,

roto

but we eventually made it. There were pretty many people and only one path to walk, but it was nice to get away from the city for the day.

camino de dinero

The path followed the stream the whole way up giving you great views of rapids and waterfalls.

v

doble

At the top, there was a muddy pathway

barro

ayuda

up to an impressively high waterfall blowing in the wind.



vertiente + viento = mojado

qué grande!

On the way down, we stopped to rest on some of the rocks.

sentadas

sentado

Some people got a little wetter than planned,

tilla mojada

but fortunately no one fell through the bridge.

peligro

All in all it was quite a nice day.

nubecitas

Sunday, May 13, 2007

the rest of Beijing

On Sunday in Beijing, there's a big antiques market, crowded with people selling things from every epoch of Chinese history. From the time of Mao, we have propaganda posters.

propaganda

And other random used items from the modern era, overpriced, of course, especially for foreigners and even Chinese tourists.

cachureo

There's also, as expected, a huge collection of statues, both small

estatuas a la venta

and large.

estatuas gigantes

They also had teapots,

+ teteras

and if I could read Chinese, a huge collection of cheap used books, new

libros usados

and old.

libros antiguos

After I got bored of looking at antiques of dubious authenticity, I headed to the Temple of Heaven Park. On the way, I had an excellent, cheap meal in one of Beijing's many hutongs, long snaking alleyways crowded with houses and small stores selling everything imaginable. They really are the best part of the city, but unfortunately I didn't get any pictures of them, mostly because I was too caught up in the surroundings to want to take pictures, and they didn't really put me in the mood to be touristy. Unfortunately, many of these great areas are being destroyed in preparation for the Olympics. I witnessed plenty of it myself.

destrucción

They're being replaced by apartment buildings and modern avenues like this one with its scientific bridge.

puente matemático

Anyway, after my great lunch, I went to see the Temple of Heaven.

otra vez



The temple is pretty similar to all the other ones I've seen in China, and it's mobbed with tourists, some of whom pass the time just as I would like to on a tour.

juego de naipes 3

I really liked the park around the temple, though, because there weren't that many people considering how big it is, and it was mostly quiet and peaceful, something I'm not used to finding in China, especially near tourist attractions. There were old men flying kites

señor con volantín

and lots of flowers and trees.

árboles alineados

barba de flores lilas



Strangely, most of the trees were arranged in perfectly straight rows, even the really old ones. I guess that order it part of the Chinese sense of beauty.



Later that night, I passed through Tiananmen Square on the way back the hotel. It was just as impressive at night as during the day.



plaza de Tiananmen

The next day I visited the Lama Temple, a Tibetan Buddhist temple in Beijing that narrowly escaped destruction during the Cultural Revolution. In any case, it was very ornate and beautiful, but you weren't allowed to take pictures inside the temples.

monjes

I snuck one anyway since I don't use the flash.

buddha

Outside, they had a lot of prayer wheels, shiny from all the tourists.

rueda de oración

Another day, I visited the Summer Palace where the royal family used to go to avoid the heat in the center of the city. It's a big park with a huge lake and some temples.

templo del palacio

puente altísimo

There's also a boat decorated entirely with jade.

barco de jade

The temple is beautiful architectually,

torre del templo

templo desde arriba

and from the top, you can see the whole park



and even Beijing.

lago + ciudad

The temple is built on pretty steeply into the hill.

muralla alta

techos de templo

There are a number of other small temples and old buildings scattered about the hill



and more dangerous brass animals guarding them.

dragón encarcelado

In general, Beijing is a much more interesting city than Xi'an. While I was there, I saw a wonderful art performance by a group of artists from Catalunia, the southeastern part of Spain. It was called The Fury of the Bulls, and was held in an abandoned warehouse. At first, the people gathered in a circle, even though no one ever suggested it nor helped it take shape.

La Furia de los Torros

There were people filming the whole thing, so the audience was invited to take pictures too. The performance was really crazy with lots of action in and among the audience, turning us into a herd of cattle just trying to get out of the way.

furia 3

There was also a music festival, the biggest in China, Midi Fest.

Midi fest

Though I wasn't too impressed with the music, it was a great environment - lots of people outside, dancing, enjoying themselves.

escenario de hip-hop

When I wasn't out being a tourist, I got to practice my Spanish with a Spaniard and a Mexican who were staying in the same hostel I was. There was a ping pong table out front which we usually had to share with the neighborhood kids, allowing me to speak Spanish and Chinese both.

ping pong

And in case we needed anything, there was a Walmart within walking distance (though I personally refused to spend any money there).

Walmart chino

Navigation in the city wasn't overly complicated, but I definitely got lost a time or two. The subway was easy - but getting from the station to the destination often posed problems, which fortunately I was mostly able to resolve with my rudimentary Chinese.



And what trip to Beijing would be complete without Peking duck

pato Beijing

and the Great Wall.

cola de muralla

Completely restored in parts,

curva

crumbling elsewhere,

muralla + tiempo

the wall is without a doubt an impressive sight.

descenso

I hiked ten kilometers (about six miles) from Jinshanling to Simatai.

viboralla

It wasn't that difficult of a hike, but the sun was beating down pretty strongly. A met a Canadian who had an interesting solution to the solar problem:

Dave y su parasól

Dave was a pretty nice guy and after hiking most of the way with him, we shared a taxi back to the city, saving me a slow bus ride home.

Dave

It's amazing that the Chinese would go to such trouble to build this wall up in the mountains. The land on both sides looks pretty much the same - why put the border there?



At Simatai, there's a nice river that crosses the wall with a suspension bridge to cross over it.

valle

torre de muralla

I liked Beijing a lot because of the history that you can still see there living today - I just hope they don't let it die.

muralla antigua